Flam
(Be sure to check out the video at the bottom of this page!)
BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE VIDEO AT THE END OF THIS PAGE TO SEE WATERFALLS "IN ACTION"!
I really, really liked Flam. I (along with everyone else) took a tender to shore. My excursion, a trip on the Flam Railway, wasn't booked until after 3, but I decided a walk around Flam would be nice so I left the ship as early as they would allow. On the tender ride to shore, I met an English couple with daughter, Lottie. Lottie was as cute as pie and she owned an elephant named Ellie, which she let me check out. Thanks, little Sprite!
Once on shore, I took a walk along the waterfront away from the commercial buildings. The walk took me past various sizes (and types) of boats as well as an apartment building and a hotel. Further along the shore, you could see some red houses directly situated on the shore with boats moored out about 10 or 15 metres. The boats obviously were owned by the people from the houses but I was curious just HOW they got to their boats. The water didn't look quite shallow enough to wade out.
I crossed the road and walked up a paved road to get a view of the harbour area. I went back down to road level and instead of walking back the way I'd come, I walked on the road, being very careful to face traffic and watch around a rock face for oncoming vehicles. Some ladies were walking to the port, rolling along their suitcases, to catch the railway to their next destination and I led the pack to make sure they'd be safe with the extra space dragging their cases created on the road. On the far side of the rock face, the ladies continued on but I noticed several people walking up toward some trails. Although the climb was quite steep, I decided to at least check out the paths... and the view from above.
Perhaps the other people didn't want to climb further up the hill or maybe they knew the trail which branched off half the way up the road would meander parallel to the shore below but I decided to climb further up the hill. I wasn't too tired and it seemed that the path above might lead towards the waterfall in the distance. I was actually following a road which led to farms and houses perched above the harbour. I saw lush fields and cows and had excellent views down toward Flam the further I climbed. Finally this road levelled off well above Flam's main road. I saw a small town in the distance and realized that the waterfall was near that town. Not knowing where the road was going to take me and how long it would take to walk there, I struggled with the decision... should I go on? Lucky for me, a car came along (only one of two I'd see the whole time I was on the road) and I flagged down the driver. He assured me that the road I was on would go back down the hill on the other side and the road I'd find myself on would lead back to Flam. Now that the decision was easy, I kept going.
To go down the hill, I followed the switchback road and had to cross railways tracks to get to the river I could now see. The town and the waterfalls were on the other side of the river. The bridge was fairly far down the road. Not having a clue just how the walk back to Flam would be, I decided not visit the town. Too bad. Flam turned out to be just around the corner. I would have had lots of time to make the walk. Whatever.
As I walked back, I saw Lottie and her parents in two eco-cars. There was also a spot where you could go right up to the river so I did. When I realized how close Flam was, I decided that I'd at least try another trail in Fretheimshaugane Park. The climb up was fairly steep but the trail zigged and zagged to make it a less vigorous climb. The vegetation in the park was lush. My favourite greenery was some kind of fern which had a layered look. The views from above were also great. When I got to a fork along the path, I wasn't sure which way I should go. Further up? It might lead me to where I'd already been. So I went down. That path zigged and sagged down, and brought me to the back of the Bakkastova Cafe. Perfect! Time for lunch. I ordered a quiche which was very good and some kind of wildberry juice drink.
After lunch, I went down to the commercial area by the dock. I visited the museum which had a variety of examples of life in Norway. It also had an explanation of the history of the building of the Flam railway. I left the museum and explored the shops. I noticed ski jackets similar to my spring jacket (flowered) but they were of course heavier jackets. I bought a couple of souvenirs then I returned to the tender area where Norwegian had refreshments set up and a tent for shade. Since it was getting quite warn, I grabbed some of the water, a chair and sat in the shade. I met two ladies from Wisconsin there and one lady from Florida. I was asked what I thought about how Trump had made rather rude comments about our Prime Minister, Justin Trudeau, and I simply said that I felt it was inappropriate since Canada and the US have had a very good relationship for many, many years. It led to more of a discussion in which I tried to avoid taking sides since the Wisconsin ladies did not like Trump but the Florida lady did. Not my country, not my president.
The Florida lady finally left. Her family wanted her to wait for her railway trip with them, somewhere closer to the station. After awhile, I thought I should make my way over there, too. There was a HUGE mass of people waiting to get on the train. Seeing them all gathered together, I couldn't even imagine all of us each getting a seat. Shouldn't have worried. The train was a lot more spacious than it looked from the outside.
Soon we were on our way. I had a window seat on the left side of the train. Wouldn't you know that a lot of the more interesting things were on the right hand side? Not to worry though. There were still many lovely things to see from our side. There were many waterfalls and lush vegetation. I loved a particular spot where the river was a gorgeous teal green and there was an unusually shaped rock sticking up out it.
There was a spot on the railway where the train slowed down and we entered tunnels/fenced in track where the train made a 180 degree turn along the mountainside. Once we completed the turn, the train stopped at the most amazing waterfalls... Kjosfossen. We were allowed to leave the train for 5 minutes to go out on a platform in front of the falls and take a picture. The water moved so quickly and dropped so steeply that a rainbow was created in the mist. The train tracks were obviously above where the water continued on its downward journey but I was on the wrong side of the train to see it. I know the drop was still very steep since you could see nothing out the other window except rock faces beside us or in the distance.
Shortly after the falls, we got off the train at Vatnahalsen. We walked to the hotel where we were taken to the dining area for waffles. Sour cream and jam, just like in Stavanger! The room was so crowded and cramped that I just took my waffles in a napkin and went out a side door outside. I admired views of the lake and of a hydro electric plant on a river dropping from the lake. I walked outside back to the front of the hotel where I saw the pool. How I missed it coming in, I don't know, but it certainly looked inviting on this very warm day. I walked back to the train platform and looked for a "level crossing" to cross the railway tracks and see what was on the other side.
There was one unmarked crossing but it just led to bush. You could hear water rushing below the spot but I figured it would be too dangerous to venture on the uneven ground, not knowing where the drop off was. So... I crossed back over to the platform and walked to the other end of the platform. There, I found an actual level crossing, complete with the appropriate warning signs. I listened for a train, heard nothing then walked over the tracks to a path on the other side. At first I wasn't impressed. There was construction going on. I actually didn't recognize that it would become a viewing platform until I got past it to the present viewing area. WOW! There was a gorgeous multi-stream waterfall with a steep, switchback gravel road beside it. In the other direction was a gorgeous valley with a silver river meandering through it. In terms of views I'd seen this trip, this ranked very, very high on the beautiful list.
When I finally walked back to the Station, I met up with Nikki and Jada who I'd briefly shared a table with at the Spinnaker Lounge (deck 13) as we sailed out of the Geiranger Fjord system. I told them they had lots of time to see my "hidden" valley and directed them to it. I also saw the English couple I'd shared a table with for lunch. I sent them there, too. Anyone else who came to the platform early enough, I directed them to the view. I looked for the couple I'd sat with on the train, but they only showed up a few minutes before our return ride was due. Too bad!
Upon boarding the train, I made sure I sat on the side of the train which would afford me views that I had not yet experienced. Unfortunately, I did not realize that not all windows on the train opened and from my seat, I had to take pictures through the glass. Oh well... you can't win them all! The first thing I noticed was that my "hidden valley" was visible from that side of the train. I also realized there was a view of the hydro dam. Hmmm... Then we were at Kjosfossen again. I decided it was worth seeing them again so I went out. When I sat back down, I had a view of... What! WAIT! Those waterfalls in the distance... are those the ones I was beside in Vatnahalsen?? It all didn't make sense until I looked a a map after my trip. First: it seems the only way other than the railway to get to Vatnahalsen was along a road at the bottom of said valley (yes, you can see the paved road in the pictures if you look carefully) then to take the gravel twisting road by the waterfall up. That means I could have probably gone a bit farther and a bit closer to those falls. Second: although it seems kind of weird, Kjosfossen was actually tucked away to the right of my viewpoint. Perhaps the platform they were building would be high enough and stuck out enough to see both the hydro dam and Kjosfossen? Peak at the map of the area I've included to see what I'm talking about. I've also included a picture of the viewing platform they were building. Too bad I wasn't brave enough to go out to it...
The views on the remainder of the trip back were also outstanding. There certainly was no shortage of waterfalls in the area. I kept thinking... oh! that's the waterfall by Flam. We're back so soon? No? Oh... another one... that must be it. No? We also travelled beside the beautiful river for much of the way. Farms, houses, towns completed a pretty views. As we passed Lundaakeren, I saw a suspension bridge going over a section of the river. DARN! I would have loved to use it. DARN! I should have gone back. Well... maybe I will another year!
We were the last excursion of the day. Soon after the last of us was tendered back onto the ship, we set sail. I went for dinner and then to the Stardust. The entertainment that evening? The Mistika Magic Show... the show of course was full of magic tricks but the ship's dancers were also in the act... all part of the theatrical experience.
